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| Frequently Asked Questions...
General Questions
A: Any secrets I have are revealed in my books- I'm open about all that I know. I started my business when I was young and consulted Job Michael Evans, the former Monk of New Skete. For the best information about becoming a dog trainer visit www.APDT.com and www.dogpro.org Good luck!
A: I'm a softy too. I love cuddling up with my girl dogs. If there are no aggression problems, teach your dog to snuggle on cue. Using a word like "Come Up" will give your dog permission when you decide it would be appropriate. Also teach a word like "Off" to clear the couch or bed when necessary. Regarding the bed… Teach your dog to sit and wait before they jump on the bed. Say "Okay! Come Up" when you're situated. Be mindful that if you give permission 24/7, your dog will not respect the wished of your guest and may end up thinking the bed/couch belongs to them! Pretty expensive dog bed!
A: You need to teach your dog that the upstairs is your domain. Use the Teaching Lead method emphasizing the commands "Wait" before you go upstairs and before entering bedrooms, and "excuse me" if your dog blocks you path. These simple words used properly communicate that your house is your space, not your dogs. Now for the true test: prepare a nice, snuggly area for your dog next to your bed/kid's bed. Next to the bed-not on it! Pre-secure a to the bed and secure it to your dog for the first week of the upstairs sleeping routine. Station your dog at night will eliminate pacing and help him learn the new routine.
A: Clickers are a blast! Use treats with clickers: 1 click = 1 treat. I've found a lightweight human cereal, tender vittles or broken up biscuits to work best. The clicker is a sharp sound that essentially photographs a moment. For example, if I were using the clicker to teach my dog to sit, I would click the instant my dog sat. The clicker adds a cheerful incentive to their training. It focuses on what they do right, instead of discipline, which focus on what they do wrong. The clicker also keeps you upbeat and the dogs love it! Clickers can be used to teach your dog anything. I've found my clicker especially helpful when teaching my dogs about housetraining, jumping and the Four Paw Rule, tricks and the come command. See Clicker Happy Training.
A- Here we return to the age old cliché: Good Manners start at home. When you're out, your dog is sleeping on and off. When you come in, your dog may be very excited, but that's generally a learned behavior. Yes, they're excited to see you, but the more excited you get in response to their behavior, the more excited they will get. When you come in stay very calm and wait until your dog is calm and centered, Then give a command like sit or down and stay (teach these if necessary) and pet your dog when they are calm. When company comes in. have your dog's favorite toy handy and teach " Go Get Your Toy!" I've found that peanut butter in a bone or a tennis ball works great for my dogs.
A: Sprinkling comes in two forms: submissive or excitement. First of all never correct your dog. She has no idea that she's doing it and corrections make it worse. To resolve your problem follow the appropriate measures:
A: I love giving my dogs little treats, it makes them so happy! Training cannot be totally treat dependant, otherwise when you give them a command; they'll only listen if you're holding a a goody. But unscheduled reinforcement, whether it's a treat or toy, it perfectly acceptable and greatly appreciated! I use treats to introduce new concepts to puppies and older dogs that are fearful of structured training lessons. By using treats, toys or loving attention your dog will learn that cooperation definitely pays!
A: There are certain treats that are just too unhealthy if given in excess. Liver and gourmet treats should be given in very limited quantities. I've used a lightweight human cereal as a treat.
A: You can give your dog treats throughout the day, again, if they're a lightweight snack. Use whatever command you're working on, whether it's "sit" or "down," guide your dog through the command and give them a treat as soon as they move into position. When they complete the task, use a word like "YES!"
A: I'm a big advocate of spaying and neutering. There are 10 million dogs euthanized yearly, which is 140 times the amount of people that migrate to the Super Bowl each year. There are a lot of conflicting views as to when to spay and neuter. I've always been an advocate of 7 to 8 months, or sometimes a bit younger with Toy breeds as they can go into season early. If your vet advocates an earlier spaying or neutering, be sure to ask them why and make an educated decision. Early spaying and neutering limits the release of certain hormones, such as testosterone and estrogen, which in addition to developing sexual traits, also effect growth.
A: Here's my theory: You feed your dog so they don't have to go out and hunt. You give your dog shelter so they don't have to find a den. Neutering follows, so your dog won't feel compelled to reproduce. That aside, neutering prevents illnesses, such as reproductive cancers. It discourages roaming and aggressive tendencies especially in young, dominant male dogs.
A: This is a total myth. I've spayed and neutered all my dogs, kept up their physical activity, and they're mood has not been effected. Granted one of my dogs is a bit of a pudge, but that was neither intensified nor reduced by spaying her.
A: Yes, this is pretty disgusting. But not unnatural. The only thing to be thankful for? That you're not a dog! To your dog these stool are quite a delicacy. Tasty too! Interference or corrections only highlight their worth- your dog thinks your quick reaction is prize envy. So he gulps faster. Most dogs outgrow this behavior if you feed them a balanced meal twice a day and can ignore their stool fetish. When your dog starts to scout refocus him on a favorite activity. If you've got litter box blues, put the box in an in acceptable area or correct the box the moment your dog shows interest in it. You read me right. March right up to the box and shout at it like it was your worse enemy. "BAD LITTER BOX," all the while ignoring your dog.
A- Though this is the most grotesque thing you could ever imagine, in dog land it's just a handy way to keep the den clean. When your dog was a puppy he watched his mother do it and when he sees you cleaning up after him, he thinks…. Well you get the picture. To halt this habit try the following:
A: Grooming can be a complete nightmare, or a delightful, interactive time with your dog. Whether grooming is chore or a treat is determined in puppyhood. Find a soft bristle human/puppy brush. (Avoid the wire-bristled brush for the puppy for now. You can work toward using a brush of your choice; talk to a groomer to decide what brush is best for your dog's needs.) Spread peanut butter or chicken broth in your puppy's food bowl or provide a delectable chew for distraction. As the puppy enjoys the diversion, draw the brush over her body softly. If your puppy growls fiercely at any point while you're brushing him, stop everything and call a professional right away.
A: Driving is a job in itself! Avoid being preoccupied with your dog while doing it, as it's a safety hazard for both of you. Here's my safety rule: Confine your dog while driving. There are car gates, crates, harness belts and-my little invention- the Car Lead. Here's how it works: The handle of the Car Lead fastens onto a seat belt. It can be left in the car permanently. Now your dog has a car station. Decorate it with a blanket and a toy! Bring her to the car; then say "GO TO YOUR SPOT" as you point to the area. Offer a treat for cooperation. Hook her up on the buckle collar (not a training collar), and ignore all initial protests. Praise her when she's calm. The Car Lead protects dogs like a seat belt protects people. It's quick and easy to use, and your dog will feel more calm and secure knowing her place. Your both ensured a safe arrival.
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