Pre-Puppy Questions

1. I live in an apartment. Pets are allowed but living in such closed quarters I'm worried about the noise factor. Are there breeds of dogs that are better apt for apartment living?

   A: There are better breed of dogs for apartment living and breeds that are prone to accept separation and bark less. These do not include dogs from the Terrier Group, Hound Group or Sporting Group, as they are sound sensitive or very dependent on human interaction.

   Sporting Group: Dogs in this group were bred to aid man in hunting fowl (wild birds). Conditioned by nature to retrieve, these dogs can be trained to gather birds from the field or water, or they can simply stay at home and make excellent companions, fetching tennis balls, slippers and the morning paper. Hound Group: The breeds in the Hound Group like following fast-moving game, and this penchant has made them a big hit in hunting circles. In addition to their keen noses or sharp eyesight, the hounds' easy-going, at times, stoic personality has endeared them as family pets. The three types of hounds are sight hounds, scent hounds and large game hounds. Terrier Group: Losing is not in a terrier's vocabulary. Own a terrier, and one word springs out at you immediately - determination. Terriers take a bite out of life and don't let go. The two types of terriers are vermin hunters and fighting breeds. Working Group: This classification needs little explanation. Though more varied in job description than the other groups, the breeds in the Working Group have one thing in common: Throughout the centuries, they have performed specific jobs that have benefited humans. In the Working Group, you find sled/draft dogs, personal protection dogs, rescue dogs and estate guarding dogs. Herding Group: The function of breeds in the Herding Group is to, well, herd livestock. These dogs are a hard working lot who, in most cases, work under the direction of a shepherd. This group can be broken down into two types: sheepherders and cattle herders. Non-Sporting Group: Many of the dogs in this group were originally bred for specific, but because dog work is hard to come by these days, these dogs have become companions. Unlike other breed groups, the personalities of the dogs in this group vary widely because they were all originally bred for different tasks. Before considering any of these breeds, consult breed-specific books and speak to a veterinarian to get a truer sense of what the breed you're looking at is like. Toy Group: Many of the breeds in this group are miniaturized versions of working hunting dogs. Too small to work, these breeds have perfected the art of being adorable. Needing little exercise (though they definitely need exercise), they are perfect for apartment dwellers and older people. Playful and devoted, they demand constant affection and attention.

   The breeds that I've found to work best are unindependent, calm dogs, from Oriental origins or breeds with modified snouts, such as the Bulldog or French bulldog who enjoy napping. Dogs aren't partial to long bouts of isolations. If you will be working all day, get a dog walker or come home for lunch.

2. How much will keeping a puppy actually cost me? Are there some breeds that are lower maintenance than others?

   A: There are certainly dogs that are lower maintenance. Dogs with modified muzzles such as the Bulldog or the Pug have a tendency to have respiratory problems. Breeds with elongated spines, such as the Basset Hound and Daschund, can be physically challenged. Be mindful when you are getting a dog form a breeder. Speak openly about any genetic problems familiar to their breed, such as hip dysplasia. Ensure these inherited difficulties are not present in their breeding line.

   Hip Dysplasia is a condition found in dogs ranging from 15 to 200 pounds and that affects the proper development of the hip joint. (Dogs prone to hip dysplasia should be OFA certified before they're bred. Insist that your breeder provides you with certification slips before you consider buying a puppy.

3. How do you puppy proof a house?

   A: Puppies are way impulsive! Doing first, and thinking later. Every new situation consumes their attention. Make sure that any wires are taped up or placed out of reach and ledges are protected with gates. Clear the floors/ledges of potential toxins, such as poisonous plants. Put any valuables out of reach or you may be sorry. Puppies do not know the difference between a stick and a chair leg or a precious pillow and a stuffed toy. Buy a chewing deterrent such as Bitter Apple, which can be sprayed on furniture/plants to discourage chewing.

4. I have a toddler (22 months old). Is this a good time to introduce a puppy or should I wait? We've also considered getting an older dog that's comfortable with kids and trained. What is our best option?

   A: Adding an older dog to your house would be easier on you. Puppies take a lot of time; time your infant needs now. Search for a dog that's been socialized with young children. Puppies are best introduced when children are 5 years old.

5. I have three rambunctious children, including a toddler. Is there a certain breed of dog better equipped to handle more active children?

   A: The most important thing when selecting a dog breed for a child is to avoid breeds that are prone to spatial aggression. I have found the Sporting breeds, such as the Labrador or Golden Retriever, very tolerant of children. They have a high tolerance for pain and a low threshold of aggression.

   When picking a puppy from the litter, do a Puppy Test to insure the one you choose can tolerate chaos.

   A dog who shows aggression while eating, sleeping, grooming, or being medicated by a family member, stranger, or other dog professional (veterinarian or groomer) is showing spatial aggression. Spatial aggression is usually tied in with dominant, territorial or psychotic aggression.

6. I don't have a lot of time or space to give my dog much exercise. Are there some breeds that require less exercise than others?

   A: Certainly smaller breeds require less exercise, as do the modified snout breeds such as the Bulldog. Surprisingly, some toy breeds, such as the Miniature Pinscher and the Papillion have unbridled enthusiasm. Research breeds one by one ( www.K9net.com, www.AKC.org), visit Dog Shows in your area and speak to breeders. Hound and Terriers, by nature, have a lot of energy as they were bred to hunt trails or work on farms.

7. I work and am gone from the house 9 hours during the day. I really want a dog! Are there breeds that can handle the separation better than others? What's your opinion on leaving dogs all day long? Is it fair to leave them in a crate?

   A: Don't leave dog in a crate in excess of six hours and do that only on rare occasion. I'm not a big fan of leaving a dog completely alone for any more than four hours at a stretch, although there are breeds that accept separation better. Consider rescuing an older dog that has adapted to prolonged separation, rather than a needy pup. Some dogs from the Working Group, bred for protection can adapt to long periods of isolation. Other breeds would develop severe separation anxiety such as the Sporting breeds and the Companion/Toy breeds. Smaller dogs, especially from Oriental origins such as the Pug, Japanese Chin and Tibetan Spaniel, can cope with being alone. In any case, I would avoid leaving the dog alone all day unless you could have someone split the day. One more consideration! Kittens make great companions for puppies and are great company while you're out.

8. I've never thought there was much difference in dog breeds. After all- isn't a dog just a dog. In your opinion, what should I consider when choosing a breed?

   A: A dog is a dog is a dog…. Lesser words were never spoken. Dog breeds are as different as people in cultures. Dogs bred to follow a trail were not bred to pay attention to people, and are very driven by smells. Dogs bred to hunt creatures such as mice and other vermin are very motivated by sound and motion, and again, not bred to focus on people. Sporting breeds are very dependant on direction from people, as are many of the Toy and Herding breeds. Many of the Working breeds were bred to work with man, though independently.

9. I run my business out of my home and strangers are constantly coming in and out. Is there one breed that's more easy-going and docile with strangers than others?

   A: Certainly, dogs bred to be protective of their home (German Shepherds, Rottweillers, Doberman Pinschers) will get career stress keeping track of all the comings and goings. These breeds can only adapt so much. Stick to breeds known for their sociability, such as dogs from the Sporting and Hound group, as well as select breeds from the Toy, Working and Non-Sporting groups. Research breeds and avoid those known for protection traits.

10. What are some advantages and disadvantages of going to a breeder versus a pet store or shelter?

    A: The benefit of going to a reputable breeder is knowing that the puppy will be passed from one loving environment, with its mother and littermates, to your home. There will be no early stress, which is suffered when a dog is transferred from its mother and left (however temporarily) in a crate in a pet store or shelter.

11. My husband is semi-allergic to dogs, but my kids are dying to get one. Are there breeds that shed less than others or not at all?

    A: There are "hypo-allergenic" dogs. Of course, it depends what exactly your husband is allergic to; find that out before the pup comes home. Check out these breeds: Poodles, Bichon Frise, Tibetan terriers, Soft-Coated Wheaten Terriers and Portugese Water Dog. These dogs don't shed although they require clipping. Visit a breeder with your husband. Does he sneeze or break out? Not a good sign…

12. What's the average price difference between pure breeds and mixed breeds?

    A: Purebred dogs can range in price from $200 to $1500, depending on the genetics of the dog and their popularity. Mixed breed dogs are usually "free to a good home", although shelters may request a donation.

13. How do I find a reputable breeder? What questions should I be prepared to ask or answer? Should I see the puppy's parents? What sort of documentation should I get from the breeder?

    A: There are many sites online that list breeders. I recommend that you visit sites such as (www.K9web.com and www.AKC.org) and seek out the parent club of your given breed. The parent club will recommend reputable breeders in your area. Before you phone, be prepared! A good breeder will have as many questions for you as you will have for them. This is not intrusive; it is simply to insure that your interest in their puppies is sincere. A good breeder will also tell you both the good and bad points of their breed. Research the congenital defects common to the breed, such as hip dysplasia, heart murmurs, or eye/retina atrophies. Ask the breeder what she has done to eliminate these conditions in her breeding line. A good breeder will document all of this.

14. Why does everyone say that getting a puppy from a pet store is a bad idea?

    A: I've trained a lot of puppies from pet stores and I never go in with the preconceived notion that the puppy is going to be a problem. However, I have found that many puppies bought in pet store have suffered from what I call "Early Stress Syndrome" (ESS):

    Early Stress Syndrome (ESS) happens before 12 weeks of age and can take its toll on these little creatures, leaving many nervous or distrustful. Although I have seen puppies that've tolerated the early stress in stride, developing into mellow dogs, they're the exception, not the rule. If you have a choice - pet store or breeder, I recommend that you choose the breeder. If you find a pet store you'd like to buy a pup from, insist that the storeowner prove that the puppy came from a breeder. Then call the breeder and get as much information as you can. Avoid buying a puppy that looks sickly, acts nervous or afraid, or can't calm down after a half hour of interaction.

    Transportation, isolation and confinement at the pet store, can stress their emotional development. This makes them more prone to behavioral problems such as chewing, hyperactivity and nipping. A human child under stress would cry incessantly.

    Many pet stores are conscious of where they get their puppies from and try to make the transportation as pleasant as possible. However, some do not.

    Puppies transported from Puppy Mills are often bred from parents with comprised health, often suffering from Irritable Bowel Syndrome, worms and congenital abnormalities that are easily passed from one generation to the next.

15. Are mixed breeds better than pure breeds? What's the difference?

    A: As far as the spiritual quality, they're even Steven! I've trained both mixed breeds and pure breeds and find that pure breeds are a little more predictable in their behavior. For example, a Labrador Retriever will generally have a thing for fetching and a fascination with birds. My mixed breeds are a little spicier. It's been fun for me to try and guess what the possible mix of their breeds is, based on their behavior. Neither is better or worse than each other. It does seem that purebreds can suffer from genetic abnormalities, something avoided in mixed breeds due to "hybrid vigor."

    Hybrid vigor contends that due to larger gene pools, mixed breed dogs are superior in health and temperament to purebred dogs. What do I think? The theory sounds good. Regarding temperament, though, I've met as many purebred dogs as mixed with good personalities. The choice is up to you.

16. Are female puppies easier than males?

    A: Not necessarily. Male pups can be mellow, while the females are mounting everything in sight and bouncing off the walls. Not always the case, but there are no guarantees. When selecting a puppy it depends on individual personalities. Of course, an un-neutered male is far more likely to roam than a neutered male.

17. Is there such a thing as "pick of the litter?" How will I know what puppy is right for me?

    A: Each puppy has a character all its own. "Pick of the litter" really depends on what you're trying to pick out. By seven weeks puppies have begun to develop their own worldview. Each has a special way of relating to littermates, mom, and the world beyond. There is a pecking order in litter land and the beginnings of a hierarchy. Each puppy has a place and behaves accordingly. The bright, energetic and bossy types are the highest. Those puppies with a more laizzes-faire attitude occupy the middle ground, preferring leisure over leading. More timid types rank lower, these puppies like peace and quiet. There's a place in the world for all these puppies, but which is right for you. You'll need persistence to convince a high ranking puppy of your authority, patience to train the relaxed, middle grounders, and time to build up a shy puppies self-esteem. The payback is always worth double the effort.

18. Is bringing home two puppies so they can keep each other company better than bring home just one?

    A: Unfortunately, two puppies usually mean more trouble than fun. They pay more attention to each other than they will to you because they're dogs and your not (Nah, Nah.) A single puppy will try to figure out ways to bridge the species gap, but two puppies won't bother.

    If you have a year to dedicate, you could theoretically pull off raising two puppies simultaneously. You must dedicate time to each puppy separately every day so their bond to you will be as strong as the one to each other. When training time comes around, that too must be done separately. The joy of twins!

    Your rules are not as compelling as what the other puppy is doing. If one starts to tear a pillow apart, the other will join in. If one wants to obey, but the other is ignoring you, you'll be forgotten. As they grow up, one will be bossy, while the other will be a willing follower. The "head honcho" will want to take control in all situations, while the follower may show excessive submission and poor coping skills. Both will suffer when separated, often barking, chewing or peeing until reunited.

    Having two dogs can be a lot of fun for both you and them. I suggest training one puppy for the first year and then getting the second. The puppy will form a bond with you and teach the newcomer house rules and behavior etiquette.

19. What are the pros and cons of choosing an older puppy?

    A: Selecting an older dog of any age can be a lot easier. The cute factor has lost its shine and you're usually testing one dog at a time instead of a litter of twelve. However, if you have a bleeding heart like mine, a dog's individual story can suck you in. Rate your choices honestly to ensure the dog you select is best suited for your lifestyle.

20. I have a cat; he's my first baby. How can I introduce the puppy without freaking him out?

    A: See if you can find a breeder who has cats and has conditioned puppies to accept them ahead of time. Second, keep your puppy in a room away from your cat's main territory initially and let them get used to each other through a gate. If you're crating select a main room, such as the kitchen, so your cat can get used to the puppy without feeling overwhelmed. Each time your cat enters the kitchen, give him a special treat to associate a positive feeling. As the puppy grows, bring him around the house on a leash, so, again, your cat doesn't feel threatened. Discourage any chasing behaviors by tugging on the leash and telling the puppy "ep, ep." As your puppy grows introduce him to new rooms on lead and use the stationing techniques described in the Teaching Lead section to teach your puppy to contain his impulses.

21. I have a four-year-old dog. How should I introduce my puppy to her?

    A: Calmly! Ideally, the puppy and the dog should meet on neutral ground, perhaps at the breeder, or in a friend's yard. Initially, put your dog on a long lead , so you can interfere without undo stress. Your dog will sniff the puppy nose to tail and may growl and/or tackle the puppy to communicate who's boss. Stay calm. Praise the older dog. You read right! Coddling the puppy will only aggravate your older dog. A hierarchy is necessary for peaceful coexistence and you must support it! This "Top Dog" ritual will occur several times during the first few days you have the puppy home. Be mindful of your resident dog. Give him all your attention, feed and treat him first so puppy-resentment doesn't build. Besides, the older dog needs it more than the puppy, who, right now is focused on its basic needs. If you dying to give the puppy attention, have someone lead the older dog away. If the puppy is being too rambunctious, place the puppy in a confined space and spend time reassuring your old friend.

22. Can I involve my kids in the training process?

    A: Absolutely! Kids like to help and be involved. Many training exercises bore them to death, so you'll have to be upbeat and creative. Here are some ideas:

    • Rub a frozen stick of butter on kids' hands and encourage "kisses." (This will discourage nipping.)
    • Use Treat Cups (fill a plastic party cup half way with broken treats) to encourage the kids to give commands like Sit and Come! Treat Cups are also great for the Name Game: Shake the cup and call the puppy by name.
    • Teach the kids fun terms like the Four Paw Rule and Close Shop to encourage cooperation.
    • Make a fun charts! Every time one of the kids completes a task, have them add a sticker to their chart.

23. What toys, bowls… and other stuff should I have ready?

    A: It's time to pull out your plastic and do a little shopping! Although you may be tempted to buy every item in the store, you should try to stick to a list. The most important items include crates and playpens. This will give the puppy a safe area when he gets out of control. A lightweight nylon collar and leash are also needed. Get a tag before your puppy comes home! You'll need three bowls: two for water and one for food. Stainless steel bowls work best because they are completely hypoallergenic and easy to clean. Avoid getting your puppy anything plush initially. He'll pee on it. An old sweatshirt or flat mat will work better. Have the bedding ready and in position before you bring your dog home. Decide on a nutritional plan ahead of time. Speak to your vet or your breeder. Dry food is best in the long run, although it not be suitable for your puppy's first few months. Be sensible when it comes to toys. Resist the temptation to buy one of everything. Too many toys will be confusing. Avoid designating old household shoes or socks as toys…you'll be sorry. A soft grooming brush is also necessary.

24. Can you recommend any Puppy first Aid kits essential to have on hand?

    A: Here's a first aid kit for dogs. Set these things aside in a safe place or take them with you any time you are traveling with your puppy:

    • A strip of cloth to use as a muzzle (Sarah you have to illustrate this).
    • Gauze pads
    • A sheet or towel that can be used to carry your puppy in a relaxed position.
    • A few strips of cloth to tie around a bleeding wound
    • Hydrogen Peroxide, a poison hotline number and a list of poisonous plants

    Some poisonous indoor plants include: Cactus, Dumbcane, Marijuana, Mistletoe, Philodendron, Poinsettia sap, and Tobacco. Some poisonous outdoor plants include: Azalea bush, Daffodil flower bud, Honeysuckle, Horse chestnut, Lily of the valley, Morning glory flower, Rhododendron shrub, Rhubarb, Skunk cabbage, Tulip bulb and Wild mushroom.

    • Basitracin, a snake bite kit, towels to wet in case of heat stroke
    • Ice pack, a rectal thermometer (oh joy!), towel and a jug of water in case you get stuck.

25. How should I prepare for the trip home?

    A: So the day has finally arrived and your life will never be quite the same. With proper planning, you will not encounter anything you cannot handle. Depending on the situation, the car ride can be quite an experience. The worst-case scenario is that your dog gets sick. Bring paper towels and a sheet to lie across the seat. Bring along a box or crate for your puppy to ride home in. This will give your puppy a sense of security. Bring someone along to sit with the puppy. If the puppy gets nervous, tell your friend to talk to him to calm him down. Before you leave, secure a light collar with telephone number and identification. Bring chewies in case the puppy gets the urge to chew. A clock and hot water bottle may also help. Drive slowly taking each curve with care and play some classical music. Do not reprimand the puppy for anything, as this will only make him nervous. Plan for the worst, so that, no matter what, you will be prepared.