Puberty Pups (16 weeks to one year)

1. My puppy's just gone from being incredibly sweet, to very defiant. She used to come; now she looks at me and darts away. How do I handle this?

   A: Oh, your little teenager! She's just testing to see who's really in charge. This is the time to get out your long line and research clicker training so you can make coming to you positive. Running at your dog is only going to give her power. It also encourages her to run away from you.

   Any time your dog chooses to come to you, or you have anything positive to give your dog (i.e. food, treats, toy), say, "come" and praise her warmly. After a day or two, show your dog toys/treats, and then back up as you command come. When you're outside place your dog on a long line, for easy control. Play the running back with positives. Outside as well as in, the general rule is the more you look at your dog, the less they will look at you! Since the reverse is true, do things that encourage your dog to watch you: shake a treat cup, play with a toy, etc! You attract more attention with bones and loving sounds than corrections!

2. I get so frustrated when my puppy ignores me that sometimes I feel like hitting him. Is it ever okay to hit my dog?

   A: I'm not a big fan of hitting dogs. It's okay to feel like hitting a dog: I've felt frustrated too. Hitting a dog however just isn't an option - it will only instill fear, confusion or worse, create confrontation aggression. Remember, the hardest thing to control when training a dog isn't the dog, it's you.

3. When will I know when I can trust my dog off lead?

   A: Let me begin by saying that you should never have your dog off lead in trafficked areas. It's just plain dumb. Dogs possess their own will and spirit and no matter how well trained may break from you. There's no timetable as to when you can trust your dog off leash. It's very dependant on age, breed and the amount of work you've done together. Off - leash trust is something you build.

   Training should build from a 6-foot lead, to a long line. When working with your dog, always make being near you and coming something positive so that they won't have an inclination to run. Use clickers, favorite treats and toys to highlight your magnetism.

   As far as when you personally will be ready to trust your dog off lead? You'll have to be the judge, though I encourage you to get through the first year or two before even attempting this, as adolescence is always tricky. The dog's impulses can vary from day to day.

4. When is professional training necessary? How do I find a reputable trainer?

   A: I belong to an organization called American Pet Dog Trainers (www.apdt.com). They list trainers in all areas of the country and you can call them and find out if they match with your dog training philosophies. You'll know professional training is necessary when you're getting frustrated to the point of steam coming out your ears, and your dog is getting more and more confused.

5. My puppy gets so hyper when he sees another dog. Sometimes he pulls me over and wants to play, other times he gets assertive and growls. I'm afraid of being pulled down, as he gets bigger! What can I do?

   A: Your puppy needs an appropriate training collar. I'm a big fan of the Gentle Leader. It will guide your dog like a horse on a halter, allow him to exhibit a natural body posture, and communicate passively that you direct his behavior. Neck collars often choke dogs, twisting them into an uncomfortable position resulting in an aggressive display.

   If there's another dog in the vicinity, and you want to approach, do so on your terms! Walk your dog across the street, instructing, "wait", and then "okay" to allow free play.

6. My puppy jumps all over people when they come over! She's happy to see them, but not everyone enjoys this greeting. What can I do? I leave her in the crate when I go out and sometimes she's so excited to see me she pees all over herself.

   A: Your puppy seems to have a hard time containing her enthusiasm. I have one of those at home too. The important thing to remember is that good manners start at home. When you come in, ignore your puppy until she calms down (this will also help with her excitable urination). When people come over, encourage them to ignore your puppy until she's following the four-paw rule. I've found it helpful to leave a drag leash on your dog, placing a knot just past where the leash passes her paws. When she gets excited, step on the leash to stop her from jumping (see reverse yo-yo). Another important aspect of teaching your puppy how to contain herself when company comes over is to give her a displacement activity. I've found that hollow bones stuffed with a bit of peanut butter or tennis balls work wonders at my house.

7. My dog just started barking. Mostly it's when I leave him in the crate and am in another room or when I'm not paying attention to him. What should I do?

   A: He's smart. I'm sure all that barking gets attention pronto. He's going through a separation anxiety phase and learning what controls you and what doesn't. Ideally, you should ignore him (wax earplugs work great, I've tried them myself). You can try discreetly sprits water or water mixed with vinegar at his crate, but if this backfires, stop. The key element when dealing with barking behavior is reinforcing your dog's quietness, not just when he is catching his breath, but when he is quiet for three to five seconds.

   When you have to leave your dog, give him a displacement activity (hollow bone stuffed with peanut butter or his favorite chew). When working with your dog, if there is a barking scenario while you're close at hand, encourage the barking, but then also teach quiet.

8. We want to have our puppy with us when we watch TV, but he's so hyper, he paces around the room at grabs at the remote or other mouthables to get our attention. We put him back in his crate and he barks the night away. What can we do?

   A: Your puppy is stealing your remote because it is the most effective way he has found to get your attention.

   Instead, train your puppy on a Teaching Lead and teach him to "settle down." Create a space for him in the room, put a matt down and give him some fun toys to chew. You may station him or leave him attached to you. Before you bring a puppy into the room, make sure all of his basic needs are taken care of: bathroom, feeding, water, and exercise. Within weeks this new way of hanging out will become a habit and the lead can be eliminated.

9. My puppy attacks me every time I take him for a walk. He just goes nuts, jumping on my back, biting my arm, barking- the whole 9 yards. What can I do?

   A: First of all, you need a Gentle Leader. During adolescence, puppies like to see what gets your attention. This behavior usually starts with a tug of war, on toys. When tug of war translates to clothing or lead walking it often is followed by a confrontational correction, which the puppy thinks is a riot.

   Stay calm and teach your puppy to walk at your heel. To do this, you need a collar that the puppy doesn't pull against or view as confrontational. I recommend a No Pull Harness™ or Gentle Leader™. Neck collars on the other hand, often make matters worse; when a rowdy pup acts up the collar is pulled tighter which intensifies their challenge (equivalent to grabbing a man by his coat and dragging him down the street).

10. When I give my dog a command, he completely ignores me. It's totally frustrating. I bend down to his level and repeat myself, and eventually he'll cooperate, but not until I practically shouting. Forget the come command. What am I doing wrong?

    A: Well, you'll be happy to know that you're doing everything wrong. When you bend over, you're in a play posture. You need to teach your puppy (first on a leash) to respond to you and make sure that you never repeat your commands. If your pup doesn't respond immediately, don't take it personally. Position him calmly by squeezing his waist gently and praising him. You may use a clicker or a word like "YES!" to pinpoint the moment when the puppy assumes position. It makes him feel positive about the command and he'll learn to listen and watch for the directions instead of blowing you off.

11. My dog has started destroying the apartment whenever I go out. I come in and he looks terrified

    A: Ah, separation anxiety. I know it's frustrating, but it's predictable during adolescences. Fortunately you can work through it with patience, though you can also frustrate the problem if you handle the wrong way. If anything has been destroyed while you are away from your dog, don't correct him. Destruction happens when you first leave. Corrections only intensify the anxiety of your separation. Confinement is a good plan during this phase and remember, when you come in to ignore your dog until he is calm.

    To help your dog deal with separation, create permanent stations in one to several areas of your home where you normally spend time together. Pre-secure a leash to something immovable; place a matt there to mark the area and toys for your dog to chew. Get your dog accustomed to being secured when you're in the room with him. When he's accustomed to this, tell your dog to "wait" and leave the room for 30 seconds. When you return ignore your dog completely. If he's calm pet him lovingly after 10 seconds or so. If he's wild, ignore him until he calms down. Whether it takes two minutes or twenty, don't acknowledge your dog until he's calm or chewing on his toy. When your dog can calmly accept 30-second departures, go to 1 minute, two minutes and continue to double it. If you come back and your dog is stresses, ignore him until he's calm down. Once your dog can handle in house separation, begin the same short durations leaving the house. Out for 30-seconds, 1 minutes, etc…

    When you have to leave your dog please keep him confined in a crate or ex pen. Confinement in a dim area with a proper chew, and classical music will help ease your dogs stress, eliminate pacing and destruction.

12. My dog is getting aggressive around his food bowl. First it started when our cat walked by. Now he'll growl at us. What do I do? Otherwise he's sweet and demands lots of our attention.

    A: (If this doesn't pan out quickly and there's no improvement, call in a trainer.) From a dog's perspective, guarding food is a natural reaction. Though it's not acceptable in the human realm, it is not totally unnatural. Avoid yelling to correction your dog. Yelling and other corrections often make matters worse as they communicate "prize envy." That what they have is valued and will be taken away.

    Instead see if you can communicate a non- threaten position with a treat cup or clicker. Approach your dog to his " red zone," the distance you can approach without him growling. Let's say it's 4 feet. Walk up to four feet, if he's accustomed to the treat cup, shake it and toss him a treat, if he prefers the clicker, click and toss a treat. Work within that "red zone" until he begins to look forward to your approach, rather than fell threatened by it. Slowly but surely gain his confidence, as you get closer to his bowl. If, within a week's time, you aren't able to put your hand in his bowl without him growling, seek professional help. If the spatial aggression is severe, he needs to be on a Gentle Leader.

13. My dog is getting too territorial! My veterinarian says neutering will help, but that seems so cruel. Will it help? What else should I do?

    A: I'm a big fan of neutering and spaying. There are too many dogs, 10 million plus put to sleep every year. Unless your job is to breed and you are mindful of the responsibility, neuter or spay your dog. It not only helps their overall behavior, but it makes them more loveable pets. Any dog that suffers territorial aggression perceives your environment as his own. How does it feel to be living in a doghouse? You need to enroll in a class or get individual training to communicate that you give direction and you guard the house.

14. My puppy growls at the kids when they try to take her bone away. She doesn't do that to the adults. Both my kids and I are nervous-what should we do?

    A: Please call professional help! Aggression with children is not something to be taken lightly. They can't be held responsible for their behavior, and neither can your dog. In the mean time, encourage your children to feed the dog and shake treat cups, so that the dog anticipates their associations. And no more bones. GET HELP IMMEDIATELY!