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| Frequently Asked Questions...
Young Puppies (8 to 16 weeks)
A: Young puppies mouth a lot. They mouth when playing, but they also do it to communicate their needs. Puppies, like babies, have five basic needs. They need to eat, drink, sleep, exercise and eliminate. However, unlike babies, who cry when they're needy, puppies nip and get very impatient. If your puppy starts nipping you, ask yourself these questions: Is she hungry or thirsty? Does she need to go out? Is she tired and can't put herself to sleep? If any of these needs predominate, and you correct her for nipping, you're actually missing your chance to strengthen your bond. The degree of your bond is strengthened each time you help your puppy fulfill a need. If your puppy doesn't need anything, but still won't quit, crate or isolate her with her favorite toy. Do not scold her as you isolate her. Use a frozen stick of butter rubbed on your hand to teach your puppy the word "kisses." Praise her warmly every time she licks you. (If you have kids try this with them too!) Avoid, pulling your hand back when she nips, as this is perceived as a game. Better to place your puppy on a drag lead and pull her head away, saying "ep,ep" and replace your hand with a favorite toy!
A: Your dog sees you as a dog, a major compliment. Though you speak English, your dog doesn't. Their language, which I call Doglish consists of eye contact, body language and tone. Eye Contact: When you look at a dog, you're reinforcing their behavior, whether your eye contact is negative or positive. Look at a jumping dog and guaranteed you'll have a jumping dog! Body Language: Think of your body language in this way: An alien walks up to you in a frenzy, jumping up and down, flailing his arms and yelling "blah! blah! blah! blah!." Then, another alien walks up to you calmly and says "blah." Which alien would you feel more comfortable with? Be calm and relax when interacting with your puppy. Tone: Yelling is barking in Doglish: it communicates chaos and frustration. Instead, speak in a "clean up your room" or "set the table" tone when you command "sit", "wait" etc..
A: Remember, a puppy will mouth when they have a need, so before correcting him, make sure all of his basic needs have been met. In all likelihood, your puppy thinks your corrections are confrontational. Are you staring at your puppy when you correct him? Are you pushing him away, or grabbing his mouth? These reactions are interactive. Better to keep a drag lead on your puppy; when your puppy nips, pull his head away and say "ep, ep." Refocus their attention on a fun chew toy.
A: Nothing. If your puppy has an accident and you are not there to interrupt it, any reaction will aggravate your relationship. Going to the bathroom is natural. Teach clean habits by structuring consistent routines. Confine/use a Teaching lead as you work to encourage a good bathroom signal, like ringing a bell.
A: Puppies eliminate in the crate for one of two reasons: A: Ignore shy behavior. You read right; totally ignore a frightened pup and stay calm. Any attention will reinforce the her fear. Instead, set an example of how to be comfortable. If your puppy is afraid of an object/person, approach it calmly, ignoring your puppy until he shows confidence. If it's a sound or thunderstorm, keep your puppy with you, applying the Teaching lead methodology. Walk around as if nothing is going on. Pet a calm puppy and that's what you'll have. Use treat cups to encourage positive associations. (Remember to stay calm, focusing on your puppy when they are relaxed. Avoid all harsh training methods and use a Gentle Leader to help your dog feel guided rather than choked.)
A: The best housebreaking regimes have structured time for all of your puppy's basic needs. Remember, puppies need to go out after they've been confined, after they've taken a nap, at some point after they've eaten or taken a drink and after or during play. Organized schedules are best. (Insert Schedule from Puppies for Dummies). Take your puppy out the same door to the same location using words like "OUTSIDE" as you lead your puppy to the door or to "papers" as you go there, and a word like "GET BUSY" when your puppy is in the process of eliminating. (check here for more info)
A: Young puppies should be fed 3-4 times a day. Start with three time; if you find that your puppy has a lot of hunger tension later on at night, (nipping and hyperactive), give a sprinkling of food at 10:00 or 11:00PM before you go to bed. To determine the amount of food your puppy should get during the day, speak to your veterinarian, breeder or reference other professional sources. Feed your puppy in the same place, ideally a flat mat, to help your puppy learn space definition. Put the food down for 15-30 minutes and take away whatever he won't eat. If your puppy gets distracted during meal times, use a crate or contained space.
A- It's a flat dog bed, easy to transport and wash, that will serve as your puppy's security blanket. Initially bring it room to room, and highlight it's purpose by giving treats, feeding, and playing with toys on it. flat mat condition good behavior in all rooms, and the car when going on a trip.
A-Puppies often chew/pee on plush bedding. Better to wait until they've mastered self-control
A: The best way to communicate leadership to a puppy is through structure and organization, not through discipline. Remember, puppies respect leaders who organize space and activities. Organize activities to take care of each of their needs, and organize spaces in each area of the house so your puppy can define its place.
A: It's a personal thing. Talk to pet loving friends. Call veterinarians in your area. Speak to their receptionist and ask if you can bring your puppy in for a short social visit. Who do you feel most comfortable with? Be mindful of the hours of operation and make sure that this is something that works into your schedule.
A: Your puppy's Bones and tissues need time develop. Wait until your puppy is 6 months to begin organized walks. Better to play train your puppy around your house/apartment on a long line (if you've got the space), so that your puppy bonds to his territory. Socialize him to new spaces, people, and other dogs, by taking him out to a class, town, or an open field. Take special toys and games and interact with your puppy in ways that encourage cooperation, not confrontation. Two or three play sessions a day is ample, depending on the breed.
A: There some factor to consider. First, her age; is she younger than 12 weeks? If she hasn't had her inoculations either a house sitter or veterinarian stay would be best. Always check references before leaving your puppy. Leaving your puppy with a neighbor is an option if your dog is inoculated and their dog is super friendly. Watching a puppy is like watching a baby, it's asking a lot of anybody.
A: Absolutely! Think of your puppy's energy level on a scale of 1 to 10, 1 being sleeping and 10 being hyper, fanatic, jumping, nipping puppy phase. Avoid cuddling if your puppy is above 6; she won't sit still and you'll get nipped. Spreading a little frozen butter on the palm of your hand will encourage " kisses." When your puppy is in a dead sleep, curl up next to her and pet her softly; if they are small enough, use a "snuggly." Remember, if your puppy is in a wild, nipping, playful phase, this is not cuddle time; it's time to play games that encourage cooperation, not confrontation.
A: Young puppies don't like to share. At this stage, they are determining whether you focus on them or they focus on you. Here's a quick list: A: The most important command to teach a 9-week-old puppy is her name! Shake the treat cup and call out her name. When she responds, give her a treat. The next commands should deal with housetraining. If you are taking your dog outside or to the papers, say "OUTSIDE!" or "PAPERS!" each time you lead your puppy there. When she eliminate, use a word like "Get Busy!" to teach them that eliminating on command is cool. Other words like "toys" or "bone" are very important to teach your puppy to identify their objects. A word like "Settle Down" or "Go to your place" can be introduced to direct her to her area.
A: Remember anything you do with a young puppy is either seen as comforting or confrontational. Pushing your pup away, is perceived as playful and fun. Instead, "close shop:" cross your arms, placing your hands on opposite shoulders and look up. Give your puppy treats, food and toys only when all four paws are on the floor (four paw rule).
A: First things first! If you haven't already, place a lightweight collar on your puppy and give her a couple of days to get use to it. Next add a name tag to the collar. Now clip on a light 4' lead and let her drag it along. After a couple of days, pick it up and follow your puppy casually, adding no pressure. Next, carry a treat cup and call your puppy back to you as you shake the cup. Gradually, put pressure on the lead and encourage your puppy to follow. If your puppy resists, urging her on with positive coaching. Praise your puppy when she is at your side.
A: The one place the puppy shouldn't sleep is on your bed! I know it's tempting, but it communicates that you're both puppies and that would be too overwhelming. Your puppy needs a Mom dog figure to help him feel secure. On a positive note your puppy should sleep in your room- even at your bedside. Using a crate or large, open-topped box you'll still get all the benefits of bonding without the confusion of equal ground. If for allergies or other reasons, your puppy cannot sleep in a room with you, make sure you put them in a quiet, dimly lit area. Leave them with a hot water bottle and a clock.
A: She probably is unhappy. A full nights sleep is one of those realities that she'll have to tolerate eventually. Since you come down to take her out, I'm assuming she doesn't sleep at your bedside. Sleeping near you would be a great help if it's possible. You pup's a pack animal and obviously objects to be alone. To avoid late night trips/accidents restrict water after 7:00PM (offering an ice cube if she's truly thirsty), and if you have to get up to let her out, just let her out: no interact or play. A hot water bottle and clock help her feel cozy as well.
A: Some dogs just don't like riding in the car. The motion upsets their inner ear and, like cats, they prefer to stay home. Because staying home is rarely an option, you'll need to condition your dog to the car slowly. Designate a place for your puppy in the back seat or cargo area. Pull your car out into the open and, with all of the doors open, use the car as a playground. After a romp, take a break in the car, giving your puppy water and food if it's mealtime. Play "Find the Car" games with your puppy. With the engine running, repeat the preceding steps. After a playtime, secure our puppy (in a crate or on a leash) to his area and go for a short spin in and out of the driveway: repeat this step until your puppy is comfortable. Slowly extend your trips, stopping for a cheerful game or two along the way. If, during this time, you must take your puppy on an extended trip, don't feed or water him for at least two hours before. Exercise him before you leave, spread sheets over his area, bring paper towels, and pray.
A: I can't promise that your puppy won't be aggressive. He seems to have a strong sense of self, which is not a bad thing though you'll have to lay down some ground rules. Speak to a professional if things don't improve. Your pup view your kids as other puppies. Fast motions, staring matches and chaotic patterns are exciting for any puppy. And excited puppies nip and chase-guaranteed! Here are some ideas to help shape more cooperative routines: Take a stick of frozen butter and rub it on the kids' hands. Tell them to hold out their hand and encourage to dog to give "kisses" Have toys ready to use as distraction activities when your dog gets wild: a ball, squeak toy, or peanut butter filled toy-whatever works! Place a drag leash on your dog and any time he nips, or mouths your hand, pull back on it and say something like "ep, ep." When he runs at the kids, step/pull it as you say "ep, ep." Station him to a side area of the room on a place mat with a toy, when the kids are active.
A: Yes. Early habits are harder to break. Eventually you can teacher her "couch" on permission only. For now, get a big soft pillow and every time you want to cuddle your puppy, get down on the floor and cuddle away!
A: Throughout their first year, especially at 8-10 weeks, 4 ˝ month and 6 to 7 months, all puppies have, what I call, Sudden Fears. No big deal unless you completely coddle them, which can further evolve the random fear into a full blown phobias.
It's part of natural brain development. The most important thing you do is stay calm and relaxed, keep your body upright and do not expose your puppy to these situation for a few weeks. Be mindful of your puppy's red zone. If he can handle a car passing at 10 yards, but not at 6 yards, keep him at 10 yards for a while.
A: Another Sudden Fear problem for some dogs. For protective breeds (Doberman Pinschers, Rottweillers, Mastiffs, German Shepherds…) this may signal the activation of protective traits. As your puppy gets older, he'll become more mindful of himself. But recognizing oneself in the world is a mixed bag- sometimes wondrous, other times scary. When your puppy is showing either extreme, stay calm. In your case, have treat cups or peanut paste for the person to extend, encouraging a positive association.
A: Whenever you're going anywhere new, bring consistent things from your puppy's environment, such his place mats and favorite toys. In addition bring leashes used regularly, a name tag and collar, bowls, gates and a crate (if you have one), so you can create a similar environment. Confine your puppy when you need to. Secure toys to unmovable objects so that the toys stay on the mat. Play familiar games when your puppy is excited.
A: Find reputable puppy schools and good trainers by speaking to pet professionals in your area and friends that have had a good experience. Speak to the trainer before you commit. Find out what there philosophy is, if they have written material they could send, and how long they've been teaching. Feel free to ask for references or to observe a class. It's time to get individual help when you are feeling chaotic and frustrated with your puppy. If corrections make problems worse, find a trainer/behavior specialist who will train you as well as the dog. Good help can bring easy harmony to your relationship.
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